Contest free 1 year servicing!

10 Lucky Winners
Free 1 year Mobil 1 0w40 (4 x sevicing) servicing.

Servicing Package x 4
Mobil 1 0w40
Oil filter
Spark plug
Standard points check

Simply join as a member, copy the contest form and paste on Word Doc and email to tonyhe@tatco.com.sg

Winner will be notify be email and SMS to received servicing voucher


Closing date line for submission of contest 15th Nov 10, so hurry!
Result will be up on the last day of November.
10 lucky winner will be photo will be up on Winner Post 2010



https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Ol5atgrtQbJwBNeFPEuPrjP01Dfdl3CjcS40Z7UGEE8

Engine oil (Pls Read) 6

Viscosity
Measure of oil’s resistance to flow

• Detects contamination
• Affects heat generation
• Affects sealing
• Affects rate of oil consumption

Viscosity Index

Measure of the rate of change of viscosity with temperature

• Affects range of operating temperature

Monograde and Multigrade Characteristic

Mobil 1 currently has 1000 Endorsement and 97 preferential endorsement .

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Preferential Endorsement

Do you know about Polyalphaolefins (PAOs)?

Poly-alpha-olefins characteristics- does not crystallize or solidify easily and are able to remain oily.
A synthetic lubricant to perform from low temperature to very high temperature and will not changes it states.

Read from Wikipedia PAOs Properties:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyolefin#Properties

Synthetic engine oil

Source data from ExxonMobil

Addictives: 

To improve the performance of the base oil
Impart entirely new performance characteristics to a lubricant
Reduce the rate at which undesirable changes take place

DO NOT ADD ANY ADDICTIVES TO YOUR ENGINE OIL OR IT WILL RUIN THE FORMULATION.



Mobil 1 PAOs formulation:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Synthetic_Oils_FAQs.aspx#FAQs4

  

Source data from ExxonMobil

The interesting findings

There's tonnes of ExxonMobil patented products at US Patent website.

You may want to know about synthetic base oil From wikipedia :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

Counterfeit

 Mobil 1 is like LV bag, It's never cheap and lots of counterfeits in the market.

Make your money worth on the real stuffs.

Have you there's a Mobil 1 sales at the petrol station?

 

Below is one of the case that happened in 2002.

Tips: Colours, fonts size, sticker alightment. You need atleast 2 bottles to differentiate the fake 1.

Mobil 1 is more then worth it !

Las Vegas Field Test

Performance camshaft

For an engine to make more power, it has to take in more air. In most four stroke engines, the air must enter the combustion chamber through the valves. The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves by regulating the time that the valve is opened and closed, and how much the valve is opened by. An easy solution to have more power, would be to alter the characteristcs of the camshaft so that it either keeps the valves open for a longer period of time, or lift the valve higher off it's seat so that more air can pass into the combustion chamber. It all sounds very easy, but once again, there's more to it than meets the eye. Like most engine mods, this one is also a compromise.


In the perfect engine, the inlet valve will open when the piston is at TDC (top dead center), and as it travels down the bore, it will suck in a full charge equal to it's displacement. The exhaust valve would open at BDC (bottom dead center), and the full displacement of spent gasses would be pumped out of the engine - the perfect engine running at 100% volumetric efficiency. In practice, the stresses on the valvetrain would just be too much for the materials to handle. To lift a valve of say 50g some 10mm off it's seat in less than a millisecond (at 6000rpm) without it bouncing or doing anything untoward in the next 100 000km of it's life, simply doesn't work with the materials in use today. So, the manufacturers used their multi-million dollar research budgets to come up with a simple solution.

The piston travels rather slowly at TDC compared to the middle of the stroke - there's not much of the pumping action being done in the 10 or 20 degrees around TDC. So, they start to open the valve gently while the piston is still on it's way up on the exhaust stroke. Although this creates valve "overlap" (time in which both the intake and the exhaust valves are open), it does allow the engine to breathe better and create more power.

When the time that the inlet valve stays open is made longer, the overlap starts to become a problem at low engine speed. The exhaust gasses get pumped into the inlet tracts, substantially diluting the incoming charge and causing the engine to run very poor. That's why an engine with a wild camshaft runs uneven at idle - it's choking in it's own exhaust gasses. However, when the engine speed goes up, the exhaust gasses pick up momentum, and during the overlap period, the departing exhaust charge creates a partial vacuum behind it, sucking in more of the fresh intake charge.

This leads us to two important conclusions: Firstly, the wilder the camshaft, the less power the engine will make at low rpm. Such wild engines will normally not have enough power at regular "civilised" driving speeds to pull the skin off a rotten banana. To pull away from a stop, you will have to rev it up to come "on the cam", or stall the engine at every attempt at a civilised getaway. Secondly, the engine will only produce more power at the very top of it's rev range. These are important points to consider when choosing a racy camshaft for your engine. Are you willing to sacrifice low speed drivability in exchange for more top end power? It's up to you to decide.

No, I m not against performance camshafts and want to point out the facts to you so you won't end up wit a car you hate. Driving such a car to work every day soon starts to get on one's nerves. And if you transport passengers in your vehicle, be warned : they are usually not very sympathetic towards the neck-wrenching style of driving that such a vehicle demands to keep it "on the boil". If you do decide to go with a hairy cam, there are a few things you can do to slightly alleviate the associated low speed problems.

A good free-flow extractor exhaust with long primary pipes tuned to low engine speed optimisation can make the engine come on the cam a little sooner. The long 4-into-1 systems seem to be able to "pull the engine on the cam" a little sooner than the regular banana style 4-into-2-into-1 systems.

Long ramstacks on the intake. What is a ram stack? It's those shiny flared tubes you often see on the carburettors of high-performance engines. These artificially create a longer intake path for the air, allowing it to build up some momentum. They also have an added benefit that they can allow up to 8% more flow into the carb when compared to the usually blunt ending of the carb mouth.

Proper gas-flowing of the cylinder head. A lot of cylinder heads out there flow more air in the wrong direction than they can flow in the right direction. Most people who gasflow cylinder heads don't even realise that they are making it easier for the gasses to also flow well in the wrong direction! Remember that the main problem is that the exhaust gasses flow into the intake port during the increased overlap period. I can put you in touch with people who can do special things to a cylinder head so that it is difficult for the exhaust gasses to pop out through the intake port in the camshafts' overlap period. There's a whole science behind optimising the head to make it "cam-friendly", and usually there is a substantial improvement in the low speed range if the cylinder head is flowed properly, by a person who knows what directional flowing is about. Note that it is easy - even for experienced "port grinders" - to completely ruin the reverse-flow characteristics of your cylinder head.

Match the engine controls to the camshaft. The different profile of the camshaft plays havoc with the fuel injection's standard factory mapping. The ignition timing and mixture requirements of the engine is vastly different to that of a standard engine. The way I would recommend to do this, is to fit a CHIP. The engine can be run on a loading type dynamometer, and the engine management system can be reprofiled to match the specific engine's state of tune. The unichip is perfect for modified engines, because of it's ability to be reprogrammed whenever needed, i.e. if you decide to make more mod's, you simply have the unichip reprogrammed to match your new requirements. You don't have to throw it away like a conventional, old style "chip".

See how the camshaft is born by Comp Cam.

Increase Compression Ratio (Increase Performance)

Courtesy of HowAutoworks.com

There are several ways to increase the compression ratio of an engine, and providing you don't go over the top with a ratio that would be better suited to a dragster, you should see some form of improvement on most engines.


We'll skip the lesson in thermodynamics, but I'll tell you that the compression ratio is directly related to engine efficiency. Engines with higher compression ratios usually produce a bit more power than their low-compression counterparts, but most importantly, they can produce the same amount of power while using less fuel. This is because they can burn the fuel more efficiently.

But don't go running out and rip off your cylinder head yet. This information is not that privelaged - the engine manufacturers with their million dollar research budgets have also stumbled upon it (most of them knew before 1940). The reason why we don't see compression ratios approaching 100:1 is simple. With the quality of pump fuel that we have available, most engines cannot handle more than around 11:1 before detonation sets in; i.e. the temperatures in the combustion chamber gets so high that the mixture starts to burn uncontrollably. Not good for keeping an engine in one piece. So, the manufacturer has to leave a margin of safety in his engine design, and in order to ensure that it will run well on the lowest quality of fuel, he plays it safe with the compression ratio. Don't overdo it. Consult with a good engine-builder before deciding by how much you want to lift the compression ratio. An irresponsible descision might cost you a new cylinder head, or , at worst, ruin your engine.

The correct way to go about the whole procedure, is first to determine the compression ratio of your standard engine. No, looking it up in the specifications that the manufacturer supplies, is not good enough. Individual engine tolerances vary too much, and if you don't know the history of your engine, it might be disastrous to take a gamble and hope for the best. The previous owner might have had the cylinder head skimmed etc. It is best to physically measure it.

This is done by determining the total volume of the cylinder when the piston is at the bottom of it's stroke, including the volume between the piston and cylinder walls down to the top compression ring, the thickness of the cylinder head gasket, the volume of the piston crown if it is not a flat-topped item, and the total volume inside the combustion chamber. This figure is then divided by the total volume of the cylinder when the piston is at the top of it's stroke. This will give the true compression ratio of the engine. A good engine builder will repeat this process for all the cylinders of the engine to ensure that the compression ratios of the individual cylinders are all equal.

The easiest way to increase the compression ratio, is to have the desired amount of material machined off the face of the cylinder head, thereby decreasing the volume of the combustion chamber. Alternatively, you can fit a thinner cylinder head gasket, have the valve seats raised, or fit high compression pistons. This will leave the maximium amount of "meat" on the cylinder head, should it later become necessary to have it machined straight. Most newer heads won't stand two skimmings - should the engine overheat in future after being skimmed once, you will most likely have to throw the cylinder head away.

Like with all modifications, this one will also change the requirements of the engine to give optimal performance. It is likely that the engine will now need less total ignition advance. It might also be able to burn a leaner mixture under part-throttle conditions. The fuel system doesn't know that the compression ratio is higher, and neither does the ignition system, and it usually won't compensate for the new conditions by itself. So, like with almost any other modification, it is vital that the engine is optimised on a loading type dynamometer, so that you can enjoy the full benefit of the changes made to the engine.

Exhaust System

A well designed branch exhaust system is one of the cheapest ways of increasing engine efficiency, and should give good results on almost any engine, depending on how good its standard setup is. Remember that on a four stroke engine, we only have one stroke out of the four that does work - the power stroke. The other three strokes - intake, compression and exhaust - all absorb some of the power that was made on the power stroke. If we can minimise the amount of power that is lost by these idle strokes, we will have more power available to drive the wheels, which is what the engine is supposed to be doing. To know why there is worthwile gains to be had from fitting a good performance exhaust system, we will start by carefully looking at the factory fitted system.


Most of the standard exhaust manifolds are made of cast-iron, because it is vastly cheaper and much quicker to manufacture than a crafted branch exhaust manifold. The weight and the thermal characteristics of the cast-iron, however, limits the length of the individual runners, and its shape causes the gasses to follow some abrupt turns. The silencers are also mostly not built to enhance the gasflow out of the combustion chamber. This means that the engine has to force the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber on the exhaust stroke, with the result that the chamber still has some spent gas inside when the fresh charge of air/fuel mixture arrives. This residual gas (which has done it's work, and will not burn again) takes up space in the chamber which could otherwise be filled by a healthy, combustible mixture that can produce power. The situation worsens: as engine revolutions increase, so does the back pressure in the exhaust system, because the engine has to pump more gas through the restrictive outlet. It is not uncommon to see back pressure rise to 5psi on some engines at peak power. At the end of the exhaust stroke, the spent gas still inside the combustion chamber, remains at that pressure. Next the intake valve opens, and this pressurised exhaust gas pops out through the intake valve into the inlet tracts, pushing back the fresh charge of combustible mixture. When the piston has travelled down far enough to draw in the intake charge, we now have a very much diluted mixture, bringing the efficiency of the engine right down.



It is thus clear that there are real gains to be had from making sure that the exhaust gasses are effectively removed from the combustion chamber. A well designed exhaust system can even "draw" the gasses out of the chamber, using the momentum of the gas travelling down the pipe to suck the residual gasses out of the combustion chamber. If this sounds too good to be true, the principle behind it can be demonstrated with a simple garden hose : Connect the hose to the tap, open the tap, and when its running well, pull the hose from the tap. Quickly put your finger over he end of the hose, and feel the suction created by the water travelling down the hose. (Now call someone to bring you a towel to dry yourself with.) The same principle applies to a well designed exhaust system. The gas travelling down the pipe creates an area of low pressure behind it. This not only purges the combustion chamber, but also draws more mixture into the chamber during the valve overlap period. So, instead of having high pressure exhaust gas popping into the inlet tracts, we now have a partial vacuum inside the combustion chamber, which pulls the fresh charge into the chamber when the intake valve opens.

to understand how the engine work. Watch the video

Unfortunately we have to add that not all free flow performance exhaust systems are created equal. I regularly see aftermarket systems producing less power than the standard systems they replace. Some are unpleasantly noisy, and their gasflow potantial are dismal.


There are suppliers out there who sell a well-designed, efficient product which is usually unobtrusive in sound and appearance. The bottom line is to locate a reputable supplier before parting with your hard-earned dinero. And after reading the above, it will be clear to you that changing to a more efficient exhaust system can cause the engine to require different settings for optimum performance. It is likely that the engine will be able to run with a leaner part-throttle or cruising mixture, often resulting in a significant gain in fuel economy. If the fuel system isn't matched to it's new environment, you will never enjoy the full benefit of your new exhaust system. And the best way to optimise your engine, is on a loading type dynamometer with an accurate exhaust gas analyser. But you knew that.

Fuel and Power

We all know that engines produce power through burning fuel inside the combustion chamber. This process requires the fuel to be mixed with a certain amount of air, which is done by the carburettor or the fuel-injection system. According to the amount of air that enters the induction system, a certain amount of fuel is atomised into the airstream to form a combustible mixture.


If we break the burning process down into a chemical reaction, we will see that we need 14.7 parts of air to completely burn up one part of fuel. This is called the "stoichiometric" ratio or chemically correct mixture. A mixture that contains more fuel (or less air) than this, is referred to as being a rich mixture, while a mixture that contains less fuel is referred to as a lean mixture.



Due to the nature of the internal combustion engine, it produces maximum power on a slightly richer mixture than this - around 13 parts of air to one part of fuel will satisfy most engines. Maximum economy occurs on a mixture that is slightly leaner than the chemically correct proportion - around 16:1. Under normal operating conditions, the fuel system has to regulate the mixture around these two points, depending on whether we demand power from the engine, or are just cruising at a steady speed on the highway.

From the graph it will be clear that mixtures richer than 13:1 will only succeed in wasting fuel : one part of fuel will burn up 14.7 parts of air. If we add two parts of fuel to 14.7 parts of air, only one part of fuel will burn up and do work, because there is not enough air for the second part of fuel to burn. A very important point to note, is that the second part of fuel, which is not going to do any work, takes up space in the combustion chamber - valuable space which could have been filled by a combustible mixture. So, where we could have had a combustion chamber that was filled 100% with a combustible mixture, we now only have say 80% of that space available. The other 20% is taken up by excess fuel which is not going to burn. That leaves us with an engine that will only deliver 80% of the power it is capable of, while using twice the amount of fuel it should. I hope that this explanation finally dispels the "more petrol, more power" - myth. If we want more power, we need to fill the combustion chamber with more mixture.


From the above, it should be clear that the only practical, reliable way to ensure that an engine is getting the right amount of fuel, is to use a loading type dynamometer and an accurate exhaust gas analyser. The engine can be run under load, and the exhaust gasses can be analysed to see if the air/fuel ratio is within acceptable limits (which it is mostly not). A quick look at our dyna tuning statistics will reveal that more than 80% of the vehicles that was dyna tuned by us started out with mixtures that was so rich that it was robbing the engine of power, and costing the owners dearly in wasted fuel. The dynamometer is not only good for getting the full-power mixtures right. It is also just as good a tool to ensure that the fuel system leans out the mixture under steady-speed cruising conditions, when economy is important. This shows that the dynamometer is not only for the benefit of the racers. Ordinary motorists have much to gain, especially in the fuel-economy department.

Performance clutch

EXEDY CLUTCH

What are the determining factors of clutch selection?
Torque capacity, engagement quality, heat (abuse) tolerance, clutch life, personal noise tolerance, pedal effort, inertia, SFI certification and cost.

What are the compromises between a high-horsepower clutch and a lower-horsepower clutch?
Torque is the real measurement for a clutch. In general, clutch capacity is not rpm relative. Horsepower is rpm related; torque is not. It's hard to come up with an easy answer; there's always a compromise. Let's start with the basics. The formula for torque capacity is:

T = P x F x N x R
where:

T = torque in ft-lbs
P = pounds of clamping force
F = coefficient of friction
N = number of surfaces (generally 2)
R = radius of gyration (mean radius of the friction surface)

You can see from the formula that each variable has equal effect on the torque capacity. It's simple multiplication. Each variable has benefits and drawbacks when you increase the number to gain torque capacity.

If there could be totally redesign every clutch, flywheel and operating system, the compromises would be fewer. Because manufacturer work with the stock linkage, bell housing, etc., more compromises are necessary to hold higher-powered engines. You'll notice that even high-powered sports cars or high-torque diesel trucks don't generally come with fancy clutches. Conventional diaphragm-type, single organic disc clutches are the norm. This isn't because of cost, but because it produces the least amount of compromise by design. Now, back to the formula and each variable.

When you step on the clutch pedal, the throw-out bearing pushes on the diaphragm spring (the dark arrowhead-shaped metal fingers), which, using a lever motion, raises the pressure plate off of the clutch disc.

T (torque capacity)
By selecting a clutch that has a higher torque capacity than needed, you can shorten transmission life (depending on driving habits) and endure unnecessary design drawbacks (possibly higher cost, pedal effort, wear rate, chatter, noise, etc).

P (clamping force)
Clamping force is a function of diaphragm spring force and fulcrum points that multiply the spring's force through increased leverage. Since the release bearing pushes directly on the spring, the higher the spring's force and the higher the pedal effort are. The fulcrums don't have any effect on pedal effort since they're downstream of the diaphragm spring. If you alter leverage alone, you proportionally shorten clutch life and increase required travel just like you would in a simple lever.

This method is common with many clutch munfactures, but I consider it a shortcut that gives marginal benefits with little effort. Stronger spring will produce a longer working range, so we typically can also incorporate a small fulcrum change with no reduction in clutch life. Using a stronger spring is also the automakers choice for factory vehicles, such as turbo vs. non-turbo models.

The clutch disc is connected to the transmission by the splines in its center section. With the clutch pedal pushed in, the disc freewheels in a small pocket between the flywheel, and clutch cover, which are spinning at engine speed. During this time, the disc and transmission are slowing when gear selection occurs.

F (coefficient of friction)
This can get pretty deep, but in general, the higher the friction, the higher the wear and worse the engagement quality (chatter). Calculate organic materials at around .25 and our ceramic at .36, but these are general numbers for dynamic coefficients and will vary greatly depending on the testing method. It's been verified that the results to be fairly accurate on dyno tests. Sintered iron has the highest friction that has been tested so far, at about .40.

N (number of surfaces)
A single disc has two. If you double the number of discs, which increases N to 4, you double the torque capacity. It sounds good, but the problem is that a simple racing-type double disc doesn't separate the surfaces, so you encounter shifting problems on synchro-type transmissions.

Full-face clutch, meaning there's friction material on the entire surface. Race clutches are described as being four-, six-, or eight-puck designs; these look like fan blades. The friction material on these race-only clutches is more substantial so less can be used, which lightens the clutch to speed the engagement process. The tradeoff is harsh engagement and chattering. A clutch's friction material and its disc configuration are where many compromises unfold.In order to get a multi-plate clutch to operate properly for a synchro-type transmission, a wear-compensating lift mechanism has to be built into the pressure plate and floater. To do this right, it gets really complicated. The earlier NSX had this special lift feature figured out, but it was later abandoned on the six-speed in favor of a less troublesome single-disc clutch. The old 928 Porsche also switched back to single disc after experimenting with a twin.

On a simple multi-plate clutch, noise is also a factor since they generally don't use straps to center the pressure ring or floaters. When the clutch disengages, the parts rattle badly from the torsional vibrations of the engine. In racing, we've seen success on synchro trannies with the Tilton carbon/carbon clutches because the super light weight of the discs make up for the surface drag of a simple twin. Few people can stomach the $4,000 price tag, and clutch life is not fantastic for street use. Note this isn't surface area but number of surfaces. Surface area has very little to do with torque capacity and everything to do with heat capacity.

The center hub of the clutch disc is fitted with springs, which help lessen the shock of re-engagement.

R (radius of gyration)
Radius to middle of friction surface measured in feet. Sometimes clutch size can be changed fairly easily but most of the time it's not a practical option. The '89 Civic, for instance, can use a '90-and-newer flywheel and clutch. It gains not only torque capacity, but also heat capacity, along with broader clutch choices--a no-brainer. The tradeoff of a larger clutch is increased inertia, which may result in slower shifting or possible friction lining burst failures. A larger disc will give more room for larger, tougher dampers (which adds weight).

What are the different friction materials used and what do they do?
Sometime mention as"disc types." Street versions, depending on application. The RX-7, for instance, has great friction material with high-burst strength. It may be able to improve a little on it but the cost outweighs the benefits. It's a great disc to begin with.

The performance street discs for most popular applications that feature a premium organic material that has slightly increased friction and high copper content for better heat transfer. They're also steel-backed for great burst strength and durability. The resin used in bonding the friction material gives higher heat tolerance than most organic discs. These discs are also modified with reduced marcel for faster action to complement our pressure plates.

The friction material used has to do several things: produce adequate friction; have enough strength to carry the torque and withstand desired rpm; give desired engagement and wear properties; and tolerate heat (and recover quickly from overheating).

Kevlar, for instance, is known for its insulating properties. As a friction material, this is a problem. Kevlar doesn't recover from overheating very fast because it doesn't transfer the heat off of the surface. The result is a material that can cook the mating surfaces (flywheel and pressure plate) and has a lower-than-stock coefficient of friction to boot. Yes, it lasts a long time if treated right, but it's not ideal.

SFI sticker means the component has met the certification criteria of the SFI Foundation.

What's the difference between a sprung and unsprung center hub?
 For a traditional flywheel design (not dual mass), springs are placed in the center of a clutch disc to reduce transmission noises caused by the torsional vibrations (rotational pulses) of the engine. A spring center disc will operate quieter and reduce wear on the center splines of the disc. A rigid center disc, being lighter, will shift faster, engage smoother with high-friction materials, and avoid spring failures. They're race parts and aren't intended for high-mileage applications, since the splines tend to wear out prematurely from the vibration.

Torsional vibration will increase with fewer cylinders, higher compression, hotter cams, higher boost, timing, lighter flywheel, or many aftermarket harmonic balancers.

clutch

Clutch

When you're gunning your car down the road, a lot of variables have to converge properly in order to complete that fast and furious gear change. Putting the power to the transmission means relying on a disc that's a mere 5mm to 8mm thick. The disc is abused in unfathomable ways. At launch, it's at a standstill one instant, then it's smashed between two pieces of billet-aluminum and spinning at 4000 to 6000 rpm. The shock, friction and heat generated by this act make the clutch one of the more remarkable automotive component systems.

Bare Basics

The basic clutch setup consists of two sub-assemblies--the clutch disc and the clutch cover--the latter of which is home to the prized pressure plate and diaphragm spring. The clutch disc lives between the flywheel and the pressure plate and its front and back surfaces are made up of friction material. The disc is ground zero, where the engine and transmission are physically joined. The disc is connected to the transmission input shaft via splines in its center section. The clutch cover is connected to the flywheel.

The metal ring on the backside of the clutch cover is the pressure plate. When it's forced onto the clutch disc and pushes the clutch disc onto the flywheel, the engine and transmission are joined. Full-surface contact between pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel is key. The clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel and it always spins at engine speed.In a static state, the engine and transmission are connected. When the driver pushes the clutch pedal in, either a hydraulically actuated piston or cable release pushes in on the release fork, which presses the throw-out bearing (aka release bearing) against the center portion of the finger-like diaphragm spring. As the spring is compressed inward, an array of pins or other mechanisms on the outside of the unit work to lift the pressure plate off the clutch disc. Think lever effect and you're on the right track. In this instance, the clutch disc is freewheeling on the transmission shaft, where it slows considerably, allowing for gear changes.

When the driver takes his foot off the pedal, the pressure plate re-engages the clutch disc and the engine and transmission are connected. The center hub of the clutch disc is fitted with springs, which help lessen the shock of re-engagement.

Troubleshooting

What causes clutch chatter?
A high coefficient of friction, bad motor mounts, an incorrectly machined flywheel or faulty pressure plate, spring-centered race disc (aggravates chatter), and contamination (oil, grease, or rust).

Chatter is basically the engine winding up in the mounts as the clutch is engaging and then bouncing off the mounts, disengaging the clutch for a brief moment before engaging again and winding up again. No matter how aggressive a clutch is that would normally chatter severely on a normal street car, it generally won't chatter at all on a car with solid mounts and a rigid disc because there is no wind-up effect.

What causes clutch slippage?
Oil contamination, worn friction material, inadequate friction or clamp load for power.

What results in poor shifting, a shifter with a clumsy feel to it?
A faulty pressure plate (won't lift from disc), damage upon installation causing a bent disc, failure to adjust a clutch pedal or cable properly, or poor choice of parts (sintered-iron disc, wrong double-disc setup).

Why is clutch break-in so important?
Recommend 200 to 300 miles of mellow usage for street discs. The purpose of breaking in a clutch is to engage the disc in a controlled, consistent manner to ensure the disc, pressure plate and flywheel all make full surface contact. It's also a chance for the friction material to experience normal heat cycles.

Replacing of Clutch
Approximately 100,000km or early. When you realised it slightly difficult to engage in gear.

Tyres

This could be the only reason why you like to go to tyre workshop.

Time for some honesty: when you're looking for a new set of tyres, you buy the cheapest set you can get away with, right? Most drivers are savvy enough to know that dirt cheap tyres probably aren't worth the risk, but how many of us can honestly say we really consider much more than cost?

Defective and badly worn tyres, a contributory factor in road accidents

Tyres are the ultimate forgettable products and their importance overlooked and yet they are a major contributory factor in many road accident. It is only a small surface contact on the ground which make a quality tyres inportant.

WHEN TO CHANGE

A Michelin Man/ triangle figure on the shoulder of Michelin tyres shows the location of the tread wear indicators situated in each of the main grooves of the tread.

Michelin Man/ Triangle Indicator

Small Raised Area

These indicators are small raised areas at the bottom of the grooves of the tread patterns

If the surface of the rubber is at the level of these raised areas, the tyre is most likely very close to the safe limit of 1.6 mm, or could even be below it! Use of worn-out tyres increase the probability of tyre failure, and in wet conditions can cause the tyre to lose traction suddenly. In most countries, it is illegal to drive with less than 1.6mm of remaining tread depth.

Fuel consumption
According to Michelin, up to 20% of your car's fuel consumption can be attributed directly to the tyres - that's one whole tank of fuel in every five.

Low rolling resistance tyres are becoming standard fit on eco-cars now, because the less an engine has to work against the friction of the tyres, the less fuel it uses. Michelin claims that since the launch of its Energy Saver tyre in 1992, it has been responsible for saving 184 million litres of fuel.

Rolling resistance on a road is largely the result of a tyre 'deforming' and springing back into shape, generating heat and dispersing it as lost energy. Avoiding this as much as possible, without compromising a tyre's grip, is key.

Safety
Tyres made of steel would roll on for miles on a flat, smooth road, but wouldn't be much good around corners. That principle applies to rubber: if the rubber compound of your tyres is very hard, rolling resistance is lowered, but so is grip, making braking distances longer.

All tyre makers face the same issue. The trick to getting the right balance of grip and fuel economy is in the rubber mixture itself. Michelin's mix is a secret, like the recipe for Coke, but it involves adding a substance called carbon black - which dissipates heat from the tyre - and silica, a hardening substance found in glass.

Wet weather
Braking distances and cornering grip are massively affected by wet weather, which is why the tread pattern of a tyre is so vital. The actual contact patch between a tyre and a road surface is only about the size of your hand - a fact that makes it easier to understand why it's so easy to skid in wet weather.
Therefore, it's vital that a tyre is able to clear water from the road as it turns, so that the contact patch effectively hits a dry area. This is possible with a good tread design, which in Michelin's case shapes the contact patch like the pointed bow of a ship, directing water away from the tyre to the sides.

Longevity
Cheap tyres are a false economy because they simply don't last, says Michelin. Tyres are no longer legal when any of the tread blocks are worn down to 1.6mm.

A host of different factors affect wear, but tyre pressure, suspension geometry and a car's weight do so most obviously. You can't do much about the latter, but it's imperative that you check pressure regularly - too much and the middle of the contact patch will wear quickly, too little and the outer edges will.

Tyre ratings
The way tyres will be rated and ranked in 2012 isn't finalised yet - discussions are still ongoing - but it will likely grade tyres on an A to G scale, where A is excellent.
Wet weather grip, fuel efficiency and road noise will be graded separately, allowing consumers to find a tyre that best fits their needs.

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Q- Up to 100mph

R- Up to 106mph

S- Up to 112mph

T- Up to 118mph U- Up to 124mph

H- Up to 130mph

V- Up to 149mph W- Up to 168mph

Y- Up to 186mph

Z- 149mph and overTwo important notes when considering speed rating:

• We do not recommend downgrading the speed rating of your tires. This may result in poor handling and unpredictable steering. However, if you want better cornering response, there is no problem installing a higher speed rated tire on your vehicle.

• Never mix and match tires with different speed ratings on your vehicle. This will cause serious problems with the handling of your vehicle.

Above is a list of speed ratings along with the corresponding speeds they represent. Remember, the speeds are test speeds, not recommended speeds.

Take good care of your tyres unless these sweeties are there to help.

Radiators

It plays a very important role in your engine cooling system. It is a heat exchanger which when combined with the rest of the cooling system keeps your car engine running at a suitable operating temperature.

Today’s petrol engines have come a long way however they are still very, very inefficient. A significant amount of heat is generated by a running car engine. A mixture of engine coolant and water transfers this heat to the car radiator which transfers it to the air passing over the radiator. This transfer of heat prevents a myriad of problems such as pre-ignition, blown head gasket or cam seizure. With more heat comes more pressure and old radiator hoses or worn radiator may burst with an increase in pressure.

The leading cause of car breakdown is cooling system failure - and that generally involves some form of radiator fault in the form of a leak or a blockage. Your radiator is actually a very durable piece of equipment as long as it's cared for properly. This is why you should have your cooling system serviced every 12 months. See the radiator maintenance below for how to avoid a breakdown.

+Topping up of coolant- Get the ready mixed coolant if you are not sure on the recommended amount of water level require to mix with the coolant, it varies from different brand. Excessive of Glycol will results corrosion on gasket seal.

Types Of Car Radiators– Plastic / Aluminium (top) It’s more than likely that your radiator is made from plastic tanks and an aluminium core. As radiators are exposed to high temperatures for prolonged periods it is not uncommon for the plastic tanks to fatigue and crack causing a leak.


Copper / Brass  If your car was built prior to the mid 1980’s there’s a good chance it comprises of brass tanks and a copper core. You will not find these radiators in newer cars as these materials have a high production cost now days. Copper cores are susceptible to corrosion so you can expect a lifespan of around 4-5 years.

– Aluminium (Top) This car radiator is made from aluminium tanks and an aluminium core. These types are usually on found in performance vehicles that require a lighter and more efficient unit. Aluminium is extremely difficult

to repair so a small leak could mean a replacement radiator is necessary.

– Cross Flow & Down Flow Radiators

Cross flow radiators have the tanks located on the sides of the core. The water pump provides pressure to push the coolant across the core from right to left. Down flow radiators have the tanks located at the top and bottom of the core. Gravity, together with a little help from the water pump push the coolant down through the tubes.

Other Cooling System Components


The Radiator Cap

It is the access point to the system where coolant can be added. The cap also regulates pressure, allowing it to build up and be maintained at a level which raises the boiling point of the coolant or anti-freeze.

Overflow Bottle

Coolant expands as the temperature of the engine increases. When this occurs in the cooling systems the excess coolant flows into the overflow or expansion bottle. Subsequently, as the coolant cools down the coolant is drawn back into the cooling system thus ensuring no air is introduced into the system.

Radiator Hoses

Radiator hoses carry the coolant between the radiator and the engine. These link the radiator to the engine and carry coolant to and from.

Cooling Fan

When the vehicle is stationary but running, air still needs to pass over the radiator to cool the engine. This is where the fan comes in.

Thermostat

The thermostat is a valve which restricts coolant flow when the engine is cold. This allows the engine to heat up to its most efficient temperature as quickly as possible.

Water Pump

The water pump circulates coolant through the cooling system taking heated coolant from the engine to the radiator and cool coolant from the radiator back to the engine.

Engine

Topic

• Why maintain your engine?
• How to maintain your engine?

Why maintain your engine?

When You are buying a second hand car. What is you main concern?

Any car eventually will start having problems. However, while some cars may provide you with few hundred thousands miles of trouble-free driving, others start having problems from the beginning. Why there is such a huge difference?


Sometimes cars start having problems after accidents. Sometimes it may be a factory defect or design flaw. Heavy conditions like, for example, driving only short trips without letting the engine to warm up fully also make the engine life shorter.

Corrosion is another factor - for example, park the car for a few months in place with high humidity and later it will probably have more problems than the vehicle driven all this time on daily basis.

Yet, lack of maintenance is one of the most often reason for a car to break down.

Courtesy of Exxon Mobil

Poorly-maintained engine                                                  Well-maintained engine

The different using Fully synthetic oil and Mineral oil

Courtesy of Exxon Mobil

Compare these two images: the engine on a top photo hasn't been maintained well. Looks like it the engine oil hasn't been changed for long time. This engine has relatively low mileage and already needs serious and costly repair. The engine on the lower photo has been maintained well. It's still in a very good condition, and needs no repair at all. Can you see the difference?

How to maintain your engine?
So, what's most important to keep your engine in a good shape?
- I guess, I won't say something new stating that regular oil changes is most important factor to keep the engine running. If you do it more often than suggested by manufacturer's schedule, that's even better.

- Avoid overheating the engine

- Changing spark plugs, air filter, timing belt and other items from maintenance schedule may save you from costly repairs.

- Fix any small problem right away before it causes a serious damage.

Engine oil has usage of limited life - after a certain point it starts losing lubricating qualities and carbonizes. Once it happens, the engine gets contaminated with carbon deposits or sludge (see the photo) that significantly shorten engine's life. When you change oil at or before manufacturer suggested interval, you change the oil before this "carbonizing" point, engine remains clean and once refilled with new oil ready to work hard again. If the engine oil has not been changed for long, carbon deposits start clogging the oil pick-up screen decreasing oil supply and increasing friction. Through the engine ventilation system the same carbon deposits build up inside the throttle body and EGR system causing rough idle and possible check engine light. Compression decreases and engine start wearing much faster.


If you don't remember when you changed the oil in your car last time - just check the oil on the dipstick. And everytime you change the oil, the oil filter should be replaced as well.

For the correct oil type, engine oil capacity and maintenance schedule, etc. check the Lubricant Post

Minor overhual (Engine in frame) $ 2000++
major over haul $4000++
For serious cases can consider the final alternative with the guideline below.